Tabriz, “la citta’ delle 7 meraviglie” e’ la capitale del turismo islamico 2018

“Gli uomini di Tor(i)s vivono di mercatantia e d’arti, cioè di lavorare drappi a seta e a oro. E è in luogo sí buono, che d’India, di Baudac e di Mosul e di Cremo vi vengono li mercatanti, e di molti altri luoghi. Li mercatanti latini vanno quivi per le mercatantie strane che vegnono da lunga parte e molto vi guadagnano; quivi si truova molte priete preziose.” Scriveva cosi’ Marco Polo di Tabriz, una delle citta’ piu’ belle e suggestive dell’Iran che ha battuto altre citta’ del mondo islamico divenendo la capitale del turismo 2018, secondo il comitato culturale dell’OCI, l’Organizzazione delle nazioni islamiche.

Un anno pieno di appuntamenti per Tabriz

Le autorita’ della regione dell’Azerbaijan orientale, di cui Tabriz e’ capoluogo, hanno annunciato un tabella di eventi e celebrazioni nella citta’ per poter sfruttare al meglio il titolo ricevuto dalle nazioni islamiche. Il primo grande appuntamento a Tabriz sara’ quello del 24 marzo, quando in occasione dei festeggiamenti mondiali del Nowruz (il capodanno persiano), saranno presenti i presidenti di Iran ed altri paesi della regione che celebrano l’arcaica festa dell’inizio della primavera. Per il mese di luglio prevista invece una fiera internazionale dell’artigianato. La citta’ del resto, e’ praticamente la localita’ piu’ famosa (insieme ad altre) per la produzione di tappeti di altissima qualita’. Il comune della citta’ ha annunciato di aver avviato dei brevi corsi per tassisti, negozianti e ristoratori per prepararli ad intrattenere relazioni con i visitatori stranieri nella maniera corretta.

Le sette meraviglie di Tabriz

Le origini della citta’ risalgono ai Mannei ed ai Medi (primo millennio avanti Cristo) ma le bellezze di oggi di Tabriz (il nome proviene da Tauris o fortezza) sono risalenti soprattutto al 13esimo secolo in poi, quando la citta’ fu prima capitale degli Ilkanidi, poi degli Aq Quyunlu e infine dei Safavidi, fino al 1548.

1) La moschea Kabud (o moschea blu) e’ la piu’ famosa della citta’; detta pura Jahan Shà, viene così denominata per il colore turchino della sua cupola e delle piastrelle incise della sua facciata esterna. Viene anche detta “Firuze Jahan” o “Firuze Eslam” e venne costruita nel quindicesimo secolo da Jahan Sha Qare Quyunlu per volere della figlia di questo re che si chiamava Salehè. Il portone d’ingresso della moschea è più elevato del livello della strada circostante ed ha un arco ellittico sopra di se. Ai lati della moschea ci sono due colonne che salgono a forma di elica e nella parte superiore assumono una forma di mezzaluna. Queste colonne sono interamente ricoperte di piastrelle turchine abbellite con motivi floreali surreali. Entrando dal portone arriviamo nel Shabestan, o la sala della preghiera. I muri della sala sono ricoperti di piastrelle colorate e le piastrelle sono così piccole e così ben incastonate che appaiono tutte un’unico pezzo. I disegni sulle pareti sono talmente fini che danno al visitatore la sensazione di osservare un dipinto.

2) I visitatori non devono assolutamente perdere la moschea Jame o del Venerdi della citta’, uno dei monumenti eterni della città di cui non si conosce nemmeno, con certezza, la data di costruzione. È sicuramente l’edificio più antico della città, intorno al quale si è sviluppato il bazaar e tutto il centro storico. Il Shabestan o sala centrale è sovrastato da arcate e da cupole sorrette su colonne a pianta ottagonale fatte di mattoni ed abbellite con lavorazioni di gesso molto fini. Nel periodo Ilkanide, ovvero nel periodo della dominazione mongola, è stata restaurata. Nel periodo degli Aq Quyunlu si costruì una nuova cupola nella parte nord della moschea ma un successiva sisma distrusse questa parte di cui oggi rimangono solo le colonne. Anche buona parte della moschea originale è crollata e la dinastia Qajar provvide a ricostruire e a dare forza all’edificio; la moschea attuale, conserva comunque il Mihrab e le colonne originali mentre le altre parti sono state rifatte dopo il sisma.

3) La Moschea o la fortezza di Alisha è un’opera unica del periodo degli Ilkanidi. L’edificio ha le mure più alte tra tutti gli edifici antichi dell’Iran ed è il simbolo della città di Tabriz. La costruì Qazan Khan ma il sisma ha distrutto anche la cupola di questo edificio; accanto ad esso venne costruita anche una splendida sala, ispirata ad una simile di San Pietroburgo, per ospitare l’orchestra sinfonica della città, ma anche questa sala è stata distrutta. Oggi vicino alla fortezza Alisha sorge il Mosallà, o il luogo di preghiera per le grandi occasioni. Tra le particolarità di questo edificio è che ha resistito meglio di ogni altro edificio a terremoti, attacchi, cannonate. Secondo gli esperti di architettura è l’esempio più imponente della tecnica d’ingegneria e dell’architettura antica della scuola di Tabriz.

4) Il bazaar di Tabriz ricopre una superficie di 1 milione di metri quadrati ed è la più estesa opera antica dell’Iran e la più grande costruzione in mattoni del mondo. Non si sa, anche in questo caso, quando sia stato costruito di preciso; alcuni studiosi lo ritengono un edificio pre-islamico, e cioè dell’era Sassanide mentre altri lo fanno risalire all’era post-islamica ed al dominio del turchi Selgiuchidi. Diverse parti del bazaar sono crollate a seguito dei diversi terremoti ma per via della sua importanza ogni volta questo edificio è stato ricostruito. L’ultima ricostruzione del bazaar risale a tre secoli fà ovvero alla fine del potere della dinastia Zand ed all’inizio del potere Qajaride. Il Bazaar è un centro di vita ineguagliabile ed oltre al ruolo economico, riveste anche un ruolo sociale, religioso e politico di rilievo. Nel 1975 è stato registrato nella lista del Patrimonio Culturale Nazionale dell’Iran e nel 2010 è stato il primo bazaar del mondo ad entrare nella lista dell’UNESCO. In questo Bazaar si trovano la meraviglia di 160 elementi caratteristici dei Bazaar antichi persiani come i caravanserragli, i corridoi, le hujre’ (negozi), le moschee, le madrasa, le terme, le sale per lo sport tradizionale (zurkhane’) ed i piccoli centri vendita detti bazarchè.

Il bazaar di Tabriz, come gli altri mercati antichi dell’Iran, è suddiviso in diversi bazaar minori, come bazaar Amir, bazaar Kafashan (dei calzolai), bazaar Talaforushan (dei gioiellieri), bazaar Kolahduzan (dei cucitori di cappelli), bazaar Mesgaran (dei lavoratori del rame) ecc….

5) Vale il viaggio a Tabriz il solo museo “Azerbaijan”, uno dei più importanti di tutto l’Iran situato accanto alla famosa moschea Kabud. Questo centro di 3 mila metri quadrati venne inaugurato nel 1962 ed è suddiviso in tre sezioni, la parte preistorica, la parte storica pre-islamica e la porta post-islamica. In altre parole il museo Azerbaijan ospita reperti che vanno dai cinque mila anni a.C. fino ai nostri giorni.

6) “El Golì” o “Sha Golì”, uno dei luoghi di svago più famosi di Tabriz. El Golì è un sontuoso e rigoglioso giardino, una volta alla periferia della città che però con l’ingrandirsi del tessuto orbano oggi si trova all’interno di Tabriz. È un giardino con al centro una laghetto di 5.5 ettari che contiene qualcosa come 2000 metri cubi di acqua. Questo laghetto veniva detto Sha Golì (Grande Lago) e dopo la rivoluzione islamica ha cambiato nome in “El Golì”. Prima della dinastia Safavide, questo grande lago era in realtà un grande serbatoio per irrigare i terreni agricoli ad est di Tabriz. Nel periodo Safavide però il lago venne recinto con mura di pietra e nel periodo Qajaride intorno ad esso vennero piantati fiori ed alberi e vennero costruite strade per agevolare lo spostamento della gente. Nel bel mezzo del lago sorge poi la bellissima regia di El Golì. Venne costruita nel periodo della dinastia Aq Quyunlu e venne ampliata nel periodo Safavide, soprattutto da parte del principe Qahreman Mirza.

Nel 1907, gli iraniani insorsero contro la monarchia assoluta e a seguito di una prima rivoluzione costrinsero il re Qajaride ad accettare la monarchia costituzionale, cioè quella dotata di parlamento. Tra le città che ricoprì un ruolo di rilievo in questa rivoluzione ci fu Tabriz e “Khane Mashrutè” fu una sorta di quartier generale per i rivoluzionari di quel periodo. Per questo motivo questa casa, dal 1996, è stata trasformata nel museo della rivoluzione costituzionale ed è un luogo dove sono custoditi numerosi ed interessanti documenti su questa fase della storia iraniana contemporanea. Questo palazzo di 1200 metri quadrati è stato registrato nel 1975  nella lista del Patrimonio Culturale iraniano. In esso si trovano persino i vestiti e gli oggetti personali dei comandanti della rivoluzione, le loro lettere, i loro documenti, i giornali dell’epoca.

Noi di Persia Viaggi, proponiamo diversi tour che passano per la citta’ dalle 7 meraviglie.

Davood Abbasi, gennaio 2018

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